FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS       Why Do Bulldogs Cost So Much? If your first question is PRICE, maybe this is not the breed that you should be looking into.In order to breed HIGH QUALITY and HEALTHY bulldogs it is NOT cheap! There is a great deal of time, effort and expense involved in raising a Bulldog litter. Without going into too much detail, it can cost $3,000-$3,500 to breed, deliver and raise a litter, without consideration for the time invested. The average litter size is 4. Getting the female ready for breeding requires pre-breeding testing, ovulation testing, etc. - approximatly 3-6 trips to the vet at $120 each visit as timing is important. The female is artificially inseminated or surgically implanted, another 3 trips to the vet, not to mention the expense for the semen/stud service which is $1,000 and up. Then you wait 4 weeks for an ultrasound and/or x-rays, approx $200. (It is important to be sure the female is pregnant). Special diets and constant monitoring for the next 5 weeks, plus getting the nursery supplied with heating pads, bottles, blankets, medical supplies, milk replacer, puppy scale, and the list goes on and on. Then comes the C-section which can cost upwards of $1,200 assuming she went into labor DURING regular office hours and all went well. Females produce only 2 -3 litters. This is a special breed which requires the help of humans to bring a litter to 8 weeks of age. In spite of their appearance the Bulldog, as a newborn puppy is extremely fragile. It requires constant monitoring of the puppies (24 hours a day, 7 days a week). Bulldogs don't make the best mothers because they may lay on a puppy on accident and not even realize it. The puppies are normally checked by the vet at least 4 times during their first 8 weeks, uncluding wormings and puppy shots. It is a breed that requires MAXIMUM effort on the part of the breeder to make sure that all the puppies turn out healthy. The whole procedure is VERY costly.You will find that most breeders range their pet bullys around the $2,000 - 3,500 mark. If they only have two pups, that does not even cover the cost of breeding. Beware of "great deals" and "cheap puppies", they may cost you alot more in the end - not just money, but heartache too!       Do Bulldogs Really Need A C-Section? Yes, 90% of bulldogs do require a c-section. We at Two Cross Ranch we do not even allow our girls to free whelp, it's just too risky for her and her pups. To attempt a free-whelp on your own could result in the death of your female and all of her puppies. C-sections for bulldogs is required for several reasons like: high rates of water puppies which can't pass through the birth canal, large head and shoulders of the puppies, stress and heat factors may cause a bulldog trouble, the ability to "PUSH" out a full litter is often too much on a bulldog and other factors.            How Long Do Bulldogs Live? What Is The Average Life Span Of An English Bulldog? We would all like them to live forever but in reality, the average life span for a Bulldog is about 8 to 10 years. We know some bulldogs that have made it to 12!        What Is The Oldest Age A Bulldog might Reach? There are some known at 15, 16, 17, and even an 18 year old. The average life span is 10. A good diet, exercise, regular vet visits, and comfortable living conditions can help increase this time.         Are Bulldogs Good With Kids? Bulldogs love kids! They are very patient and tolerant with children, they are very gentle and loving. However, no child should ever be left unsupervised with ANY dog because children many times do not understand the proper way of handling a puppy.       Do Bulldogs Get along With Other Pets? Yes. Of course, common sense has to be used if you are introducing a puppy into a home that already has a dog in residence. Not being an aggressive breed by nature, the Bulldog loves to make friends with other animals. It may be harder on the pet you already have, so patience is the key. Let them get to know each other ONLY under your supervision. We socialize every pup to the other dogs, the cats, the horses not to mention all the grandchildren once their first shots have been given. We do keep them extremely isolated until after their first and generally second shots.         Do Bulldogs Make Good Watchdogs? No. Not if you mean would they attack someone entering your home. Because of their temperament, Bulldogs simply won't act like a trained attack dog. They may bark, slobber on the intruder before welcoming him but make no mistake they will protect their family if they feel they are in danger.          Do Bulldogs Snore? Yes. And how! Because of their short breathing passage, Bulldogs do snore, as do most short nosed dog breeds. And sometimes loudly!          How Much Do I Feed My Bulldog? A Bulldog should eat out of a pan which has a flat bottom and straight sides. Most Bulldoggers use stainless steel because, it not only lasts longer, it is also the most sterile. Bulldogs tend to break out with pimples when using other types of bowls. Never use plastic either for his food or his water. Most breeders feed a two to four month old puppy four times a day. At this age the kibble is usually softened with warm water. Some add cottage cheese and/or yogurt. There are several good brands of puppy kibble. If you are not satisfied with the kibble he is eating, try another. You want a kibble the puppy likes and which produces a nice coat, keeps the puppy round but not obese, and produces solid stools. Most breeders in this area use Iam's, Nutro, Eukanuba, Purina Puppy Chow or Science Diet. Check the list of ingredients on the sack. Do not feed your Bulldog a kibble which contains soybeans and try to avoid white rice. You may feed the puppy on a set schedule, or have food available to him at all times. The pup will flourish under either regiment. The choice depends on which is more convenient for you. How much you feed him depends on the puppy. In most cases, a growing puppy which gets sufficient exercise should eat as much as it wants. If the puppy does become obese, you may need to regulate the amount he eats, but do not put a growing puppy on a severely restricted diet unless it is supervised by a veterinarian who is knowledgeable about Bulldog puppies. From four to six months a puppy's feeding regimen should remain the same but the number of feedings may be reduced to three. At about six months this number can be reduced to two. In most cases continue feeding the puppy as much as he wants. How often you feed a dog a year or more old depends on your preference and the dog's. Most dogs do well on one meal a day. Some do better on two meals a day. You may prefer to feed in the morning or the evening. This is up to you. If you like it and the dog likes it, it's the right way. A Bulldog usually eats puppy kibble until it is at least a year old. If he is thriving on puppy kibble, leave him on it until he is at least two years old. You can feed him puppy kibble all his life, if it agrees with him. Most Bulldogs are changed from puppy to adult kibble at around twelve to eighteen months. The best change is to the adult version of the puppy kibble you have been feeding him. It is best to keep your Bully on a small bite kibble. It does not hurt your Bulldog to change from one brand of dog food to another and then to another and so on as long as each change is done by gradually, substituting more and more of the new brand for the old. If your Bulldog is spayed or neutered or as it ages and becomes less active, you may need to start feeding a reduced calorie dog food to keep it from becoming too fat. Most good brands of dog food have such a kibble. Again, it's best if you stay with the same brand you've been feeding and change to the "lo-fat" version. Whatever its age, your Bulldog should have fresh water available at all times. It is not really necessary to add to a good kibble. But you may find your dog prefers "goodies" on his food, or does a little better with some. The most common supplements are cottage cheese, whole fat, not low fat yogurt and oil. Cottage cheese is especially good for growing puppies since the Bulldog must grow a lot of heavy bone in a short time. About a tablespoon per feeding. Yogurt helps to keep the digestive system working well, about a teaspoon per feeding. Oil helps to keep the coat and skin in good condition, about a teaspoon twice a day. Corn or canola oil is best - do not give your Bulldog any oil which contains soybean oil. Treats should usually be dog biscuits or a multivitamin type treat. It won't hurt your Bulldog to give him an occasional bite of meat, vegetables, fruit, chicken, ice cream, etc. But do not give him chocolate, onions or any kind of rawhide. Never in the kitchen or at the table, otherwise you will teach him bad begging habits that are hard to break.           We Are Very Active. Is A Bulldog Right For Us? Sure! Just leave the dog at home if you are going running. The bulldog is not an active breed as an adult and cannot take long periods of exercise. Running, except for very short spurts, is not something that the Bulldog is built for. He will be much happier watching tv with you when you return home. However, they love going to the park or beach or anyplace else that requires only moderate exercise. They love car rides; just please, NEVER leave the dog unattended even for short periods of time.           What If I Live In Extreme Tempatures? Make sure your Bulldog doesn't overheat and always has plenty of fresh clean water. Bulldogs should always be "indoor" dogs, and require air-conditioning where summer temperatures rise above 80 degrees.        Why Are Bulldogs Fat? They shouldn't be. As is the case with any dog, regular exercise and a proper diet will control any weight problems in Bulldogs. However, they are *very* solid dogs. Their build is very wide and not very tall. So even though they might look fat, they are just stocky. (Also, like any dog, you should be able to feel the ribs easily, but not able to see the ribs). Excess weight puts undue strain on the heart and joints. The breed standard says: "The general appearance should suggest great stability, vigor and strength".         How Long Dose It Take For A Bulldogs Head And Chest To Grow? The bulldog reaches his height by about 6 months, usuallly. Some go through a long lanky stage, then they start to widen. At about 8 to 9 months, the head and chest start to grow, and will do so until 3 to 4 years old.     How Do I Potty Train My Bulldog? Crate Training The most important thing is to make your puppy's crate a place that he/she likes. Never use a crate as punishment. I normally give a treat when I first put the puppy in the crate and have their favorite "blankie" and toy's in there also. I have also found that putting a quilt or sheet (depending on the weather) over the crate (leaving just the door side open up to allow the baby to see out, and you see in), making it more "cave" like, which is a natural environment for a dog. I think it makes them feel more "secure" and "homey" for them. The first that I see the baby waking up from a nap, he/she is out the door to pottie. Then it's feeding time and within 15 minutes, back out the door for another pottie time. An hour or so after play time (depending on the age of the puppy), I take the baby and back outside for one last "pottie" trip before back to bed for another nap. I continuously repeat these steps till he/she gets the idea that pottie is outside..Be sure to really "praise" the baby after he/she "tinkles" or "poops", and reward with treats. A puppy really doesn't quite understand all this until he is 10 to 12 weeks old and sometimes even older. Consistancy and rewards eventually makes the puppy understand what inside and outside is for. It takes time and alot of keeping one eye open but he/she will catch on...Whatever you do...PLEASE, NEVER USE A CRATE AS PUNISHMENT !!!!!!! If you have an area that you can enclose with a little paddock fence right off your back door, put the fence up and put the crate door facing out the door (leave the crate door open) so the puppy has access to the outside fenced in area but can also go into his/her crate to sleep. I push my crate up to the sliding glass door, pull the door into the side of the crate and the puppy can go in an out as he/she wants. They train themselves..but of course this can only be done weather permitting! Make sure you buy the right size cage. You want one that has the floor space that provides just enough for the puppy to lie down. But cages are useful throughout a dog's life and it would be nice if you didn't have to keep buying more as it grows. That isn't necessary. Simply purchase one that will be big enough for it as an adult but choose a model that comes with or has a divider panel as an accessory. With these you can adjust the position of the panel so that the space inside the cage available to the pet can grow as it does. Using too large of a crate can often cause long term problems. The puppy will go to one corner of the cage and urinate or defecate. After a while, it will then run through it tracking it all over the cage. If this is allowed to continue, the instincts about not soiling its bed or laying in the mess will be forgotten and the puppy will soon be doing it every day when placed in the crate. Now a housebreaking method has turned into a behavioral problem as the puppy's newly formed hygienic habits becomes its way of life. House Training If you want housebreaking to go quickly, regardless of the method you use, spend as much time as possible with your puppy. The Rules Housebreaking Rule Number One: This is The Most Important Rule If you don't catch your puppy doing it then don't punish him for it! Housebreaking Rule Number Two: Praise your puppy when things go right. Don't let this be a situation where your only action is saying "No" when they are caught in the midst of using the wrong area. If they do it right, let them know! House training your puppy begins with a good feeding and watering routine. Establish set times for eating from the beginning. A young dog needs to eat several times a day so this means that he will also need to eliminate several times daily. Feedings should be scheduled whenever someone will be home to allow your puppy to the proper elimination location. Your puppy will most likely elimate within 10-20 minutes after eating. Your housetraining will be most successful if you can take your puppy outside at these times. The focus on housetraining should then be to teaching your puppy where to go. With encouragement, your puppy should soon learn that where to go is outside. INSIDE THE HOME: Supervision and confinement are the two most improtatnt tools in successful housetraining. Keep him in the room with you, using a leash if necessary to prevent him from wondering off. When you notice restlessness or whining hustle him outside. If you cannot supervise your puppy, confinement may be necessary. Try using child gates or a dog crate. Dont confine the puppy so frequently that it feels isolated. A puppy is a socialble animal and needs to be with people or other pets. GOING OUTSIDE: When you take your pet outside, you need to let him know what he is supposed do. Taking him ot the same door and to the same location is helpful. Use a key phrase to encourage him. When he actually begins to eliminate, praise profusely!!!!!!! Once he has elimated, it is time to play!!! Reward, praise and encourage him will go along ways if you take the time to continue doing it.       What Kind Of Toys Should I Give My Bulldog? All new puppies will chew on most anything. Purchase safe chew toys for your puppy. These toys should be almost indestructible, like 'Nylabone' products. You will want to teach your new puppy what he is allowed to chew on. Never buy your puppy any toy he can swallow or get stuck in his throat. Nylon chew toys are safe and are available at most all pet stores. Chew toys will help in your Bully's dental hygiene. NEVER give your bulldog puppy rawhide sticks, pig ears and pig hooves these are not safe chew toys. Are grapes and raisins poisonous to dogs? Recently, there was a letter in the AVMA Journal from Dr. Gwaltney-Brant and others at the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center discussing grape and raisin poisoning in dogs. Apparently, grapes and raisins can be toxic to dogs when ingested in large quantities. The grapes and raisins came from varied sources, including being eaten off the vine directly. The dogs exhibited gastrointestinal signs including vomiting and diarrhea and then signs of kidney failure with an onset of severe kidney signs starting about 24 hours after ingestion of the grapes or raisins. The amount of grapes eaten varied between 9oz. and 2 lbs., which worked out to be between 0.41 and 1.1 oz/kg of body weight. Two dogs died directly from the toxicity, three were euthanized due to poor response to treatment and five dogs lived. Due to the severity of the signs and the potential for death, the veterinarians as the poison control center advocate aggressive treatment for any dogs suggested of ingesting excessive amounts of grapes or raisins, including inducing vomiting, stomach lavage (stomach pumping) and administration of activated charcoal, followed by intravenous fluid therapy for at least 48 hours or as indicated based on the results of blood tests for kidney damage. I have fed my dogs a few grapes every now and then for years, so I don't think there is a need to panic if a dog eats three or four grapes but if the whole bunch is missing from the table one day, it would be good to think about watching for any signs of a toxic reaction.          Will A Bulldog Ruin My Lawn? "Dogs Damage Lawns," would not be an attention-grabbing headline, because it’s so commonplace. So common in fact that a series of urban myths has arisen over what causes the damage, i.e., female dog urine is more acidic and therefore more damaging than a male, and what homeowners can do to avoid the problem such as, adding tomato juice to the animal’s diet or baking soda to its water. In order to address the matter in an informed and scientific manner, the Turf Resource Center, a international, non-profit group headquartered in suburban Chicago, invited Dr. Steve Thompson to prepare the following in-depth article on the subject. The information is reprinted here with permission of the Center. Dog urine and feces can often be a frustrating problem related to lawn care. Small amounts may produce a green up or fertilizer effect while larger amounts often result in lawn burn or dead patches. While most burn spots will recover with time and regrowth, dead areas can be large enough in some cases to require reseeding or sodding. For homeowners who are also dog lovers, this can present a dilemma, particularly when one family member prefers the dog and another prefers a well-manicured lawn. An understanding of the interaction between dogs and the lawn can keep the yard (and family) at peace, not in pieces. Understanding the causes; The fundamental problem with the presence of urine or feces on the lawn is related to the nitrogen content and concentration of these waste products. Urine, when produced as a waste product in animals, primarily removes excess nitrogen from the body via the kidneys. Nitrogen waste products are the result of protein breakdown through normal bodily processes. Carnivores, including cats and dogs, have a significant protein requirement, and urine volume/production varies due to size and metabolism. Urine is a more serious problem for lawns because it is applied all at once as a liquid fertilizer, whereas feces slowly releases the waste products over time. Since stools are usually solid, owners have the option of frequent manual removal. With more time for the nitrogen waste to dissolve into the lawn, stools that are frequently removed damage lawns less than urine. Young dogs of both sexes frequently squat to urinate. Leg lifting is often learned by male dogs around a year of age; castration or neutering does not seen to affect nature’s timetable related to this behavior development. While most male dogs will hike their leg and mark once they are over a year of age, a few will continue to squat when urinating, which is more common in female dogs. Female dogs may also mark although less commonly than male dogs. Once dogs begin urine marking, they often utilize many and numerous scent posts resulting in numerous, small volume urinations rather than large volume puddles. Grass can handle small volume nitrogen bursts easier than fertilizer overload. Unfortunately, the young bush, shrub, vine or tree sprout that becomes a marking post may have nitrogen (fertilizer) overload with repeated marking and may die if continually "marked." The primary concern in addressing urine damage to lawns is minimizing the nitrogen concentration added to the lawn at any single time. Female dogs, being less likely to urine mark and more likely to squat, are the primary culprits of lawn damage since they will urinate anywhere on a lawn and usually all at once. This results in a single nitrogen dump confined to a small patch of grass. The brown spot that results will often have a green ring around the outside. The nitrogen overload at the center causes the burn, but as the urine is diluted toward the periphery, it has a fertilizer effect. This characteristic brown spot, green ring pattern has been called "female dog spot disease" by some horticulturists. As might be expected, lawns are most susceptible to nitrogen burns when standard fertilizers are maximized in the lawn. Homeowners making the extra effort to have a green lawn may be quite discouraged by their neighbor’s dog damage or their own housepet’s potty residue. Speculation on the actual cause of the lawn burn has resulted in numerous theories on what else in the urine may be contributing to the damage. Dr. A.W. Allard, a Colorado veterinarian, examined numerous variations in dog urine and the effects on several common lawn grasses1. His results support the fact that volume of urine (nitrogen content) and urine concentration had the most deleterious effects on lawns. The pH of the urine did not have any variable effect nor did common additives designed to alter the urine pH. Of the four grasses tested, Festuca sp. var. Kentucky 31 (fescue) and Lolium perrene (perennial ryegrass) were the most resistant to urine effects. In fact, the urine routinely produced a fertilizer effect on these grasses at diluted concentrations. Poa pratensis (Kentucky bluegrass) and Cynodon sp. var. Fairway (bermudagrass) were very sensitive to any urine concentration and severe burns resulted, persisting greater than 30 days after initial exposure to even four ounces of diluted urine. Even on the most urine resistant grass tested (fescue) urine concentration was a bigger problem than urine volume. Concentrated urine with volumes as little as 30cc (one ounce) caused lawn burn even on fescue grasses. Problem Area Avoidance Techniques; Where applicable, fences can be used to keep neighboring dogs from eliminating on the lawn. Advising neighbors of the legality of leash laws, where applicable, can restrict damage to areas near sidewalks and on tree lawns/median right of ways. Unfortunately, no repellents are universally effective although a variety of home remedies have been tried. Hot and bitter products are most likely to have taste or odor aversive properties to dogs. Most repellents function better as taste repellents than to touch or odor repellents. Some odor repellents may actually encourage a dog to overmark the strange smell. Some of the better known commercial repellents have these limitations as well. A newly developed motion activated sprinkler, primarily designed to keep cats and rabbits out of gardens, may have benefits for some yards. The sprinkler, may provide benefit in small yards or at corners of front yards where damage is most likely to occur; however, the presence of numerous squirrels, stray animals or children may result in over-watering and very high water bills if they continuously trigger this device. In many cases, the problem dog is a housemate to the homeowner. While somewhat time consuming, walking the dog to a park or field away from the house is a simple remedy to this. The time can be well spent since exercise has physical and emotional benefits for both dogs and their owners. Homeowners are encouraged to choose an appropriate destination and not create problem lawns elsewhere that may affect the overall aesthetics of the neighborhood. A more feasible approach may be to train the pet to eliminate in a designated area of the yard. This area would be a landscaped area specifically designed for the dog. It will need a substrate like pea gravel or mulch that the dog finds acceptable and may even include a marking post like a large boulder, bird bath, lawn ornament, or even faux hydrant. Collecting the dog’s urine in a cup and using it in this area for several days can provide some odor attractant value to this area. Feces can also be collected and transported to the new, designated area. Consistency for at least 2-3 weeks is important to establish this as a routine, trained behavior; several months may be necessary in some cases. Initially, training can occur with the dog on a short leash and food rewards employed to encourage use of this area. Dogs should not be unsupervised in the yard while this initial training is occurring. It is often easier to train a young puppy to a particular ground texture than an adult dog, but never impossible in any age dog. A variable reward system utilizing one standard treat if urinating anywhere outside and several treats or a special treat if in the designated area can be helpful in this process and avoid confusing the dog regarding the new housebreaking rules. Excessive food rewards in the form of meat or protein products will contribute to increased nitrogen content in the urine. Dogs that are being obedience trained should not be trained with treats on the lawn during this housebreaking or pets and reward systems can really become confused. Many dog owners will also find it helpful to train their dog to an elimination command during this time. Common commands might include: Potty, Piddle, Do Your Business or Hurry Up, etc. and take less time to accomplish the task when inclement weather is present or time schedules are busy. Dietary Modification Techniques; A great many dietary modifications for dogs have been tried, often based on home remedies or anecdotal experience. A veterinarian should always be consulted prior to making any dietary modifications, whether they include additions or subtractions from standard nutrient guidelines. As stated earlier, the pH of the urine has little or no effect on the urine damage to the lawn. The addition of acidifying agents, including nutritional supplements like D-I, Methionine (Methioform), Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), or fruit juices will have no benefit for this problem and may predispose the dog to an increased incidence of certain bladder stones. Likewise, alkalinizing agents, including baking soda and potassium citrate can predispose to other types of bladder stones or infections. The addition of any of these supplements has enough potential to cause harm, with limited to no known benefit for the lawn, and are not recommended. When owners have reported successes, as is sometimes the case on internet forums, liquids likely improved the situation because the urine concentration after treatment was diluted. Safer ways to accomplish more dilute urine include feeding canned food, moistening dry food with water prior to feeding and adding salt or garlic salt to the regular food. One particular home remedy, tomato juice, likely has its primary benefit through both increased salt and water intake. While salt will make the dog drink more and dilute the urine, increased salt intake can cause problems for dogs with existing kidney or heart conditions. Owners should not alter their dog’s diet without consulting with their veterinarian. Dogs with more dilute urine may have to urinate more frequently as well and need more frequent elimination opportunities. While specific breed differences haven’t been noted, smaller dogs produce less urine than larger dogs so are dumping less nitrogen waste. Dogs with bladder infections often demonstrate an urgency to urinate and typically squat several times, leaving small amounts or drops each time. These dogs may be less of a problem for lawns than normal dogs who empty their whole bladder in one sitting. Dog owners who actually note that their dog’s urine is no longer causing lawn burn, without having made any changes, should have their dog examined by their veterinarian and a urinalysis performed to make sure there are no medical conditions causing this change. The other option to consider besides diluting the urine is to reduce the amount of nitrogen waste being dumped in the urine. The average family dog doesn’t have the activity level that requires as high a protein level as most commercial maintenance dog foods provide. Although, dog food purchasing often reflects consumer perception that high protein equals better food, in fact moderate to low protein foods are often adequate for all but the most energetic, working and hunting dogs. When examining a food label, protein content must be compared on a dry matter basis and unfortunately, it is not like comparing apples to apples. Dry foods vary in how much moisture they have, so the protein percent listed can’t be immediately compared to all other foods. Canned foods will have a much lower protein percent listed than dry foods but also have much higher water content. The quality of the protein also has an impact since some proteins are highly digestible, meaning less is dumped in the feces and possibly the urine, than other proteins. In general, the premium and super premium pet foods, available from pet stores and veterinarians, will have higher quality protein and more digestible proteins than standard grocery store brands. The higher digestibility translates into smaller fecal size as well. It is probably best to discuss individual pet needs with a veterinarian or nutrition consultant in the practice to determine what is the best fit, based on feasibility, palatability and economics. In many cases, if a dog food is currently providing good, overall nutritional support for the pet, diluting the urine by simply adding water to the food may be the easiest place to start. Repair/Recovery of Damage Area; A leash can function to bond owners to their dogs and increase the time pets spend interacting with their owners. A leash can also be part of a responsible neighbor policy, be a great training aid, and is also one of the best ways to be at the site to intervene when urinations occur. Watering the spot after urinations will accomplish the dilution with no ill affects on the dog. Dr. Allard’s study looked at watering fescue at different intervals following urination. Water volumes three times that of the urine were used to assess their dilution effects. A fertilizer effect rather than burn was noted when the site was watered at any time up to 8 hours after the urination. When the delay in watering was extended to 12 or more hours, progressively worse burns were noted. It appears that routine watering of the grass in early mornings would not be sufficient to prevent all urine burns. The use of gypsum or lime has been advocated but it is uncertain exactly what mechanism this would have in helping prevent urine damage. Improved soil quality over time may result in better drainage and less urine concentration at the grass and root level, but additional information is needed in this area. Lawn burn, when mild, will often repair itself over time, especially in the case of the warm-season turf grasses that spread by stolons and rhizomes. Dark green spots and taller grasses may remain for several weeks. Sodding can be a quick way to patch severely damaged individual areas that would otherwise be invaded by weeds. While a high fence and dog-less lifestyle can ensure that "female dog spot disease" is not a problem in your yard, homeowners and dog lovers have several practical options available to manage this problem. Communications should remain open whenever family conflicts arise with various priorities. Coordinating a comprehensive program with your county or state extension horticulturist or lawn care resource and your veterinarian can keep your four-legged friend on good terms and out of the dog house, so she, too, can enjoy romping in your well manicured yard.    How often does my puppy need shots? 6 - 8 Weeks Comprehensive Exam DHLP-Parvo-Corona - "The Puppy Shot" Duramune Max 5 -CVK Fecal Exam Heartworm Preventative Deworming - Drontal Heartworm preventative should be started at 6 weeks of age. The cost of preventative varies according to the type of preventative used and the weight of the dog. Dosage will need to be adjusted as the weight of the puppy increases. Deworming should be performed every visit or the client may elect to purchase deworming medication and administer according to directions. 10 - 12 Weeks Physical Exam DHLP-Parvo-Corona - "The Puppy Shot" Duramune Max 5 -CVK *If your area requires the Leptospira Bacterin vaccination you would use "The Puppy Booster" Duramune Max 5 -CVK-4L at this point, instead of the CVK. This vaccine must be administered two times so administer again at 15-16 wks. Heartworm Preventative Bordetella - Bronchi-Shield III Deworming - Nemex II 15 -16 Weeks Physical Exam DHLP-Parvo-Corona - "The Puppy Shot" Duramune Max 5 -CVK *If your area requires the Leptospira Bacterin vaccination administer 2nd "The Puppy Boost" Duramune Max 5 -CVK-4L at this point. Heartworm Preventative Rabies Fecal Exam Deworming - Nemex II 20 Weeks Physical Exam DHLP-Parvo-Corona - "The Puppy Shot" Duramune Max 5 -CVK Fecal Exam Heartworm Preventative Outside dogs and dogs exposed to tick infested areas should be vaccinated against Lyme's Disease. Two vaccinations are recommended initially and then annually.